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RO Installation

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RO Installation


As per a recent research, water bottle or tap water could actually be a health risk. Chemicals called phthalates, which are known to distort testosterone and other hormones in a human body, can seep into bottled water over time.

The study suggests that it merely takes 10 weeks to add Phthalates to the Water. You can now imagine about how long bottled water sits before it gets to the store, to the rack and then you really drink it. Researchers have associated phthalates to attention-deficit hyperactivity disorder, altered reproductive development, asthma, autism spectrum disorders, breast cancer, behavioral changes, low IQ, neuro developmental problems, obesity and type II diabetes.

Do not sway away by alluring sale and stock up these bottles. You won’t even be able to determine what it is this doing to our children. In fact add an RO system and purify your own Tap Water. A reverse osmosis system (RO) is not only beneficial to protect you against harmful chemicals but it literally eradicates all waste water by transporting it back into your Hot Water System.


RO System Components

  • RO Module
  • Angle Stop Valve
  • Pre-Filter #1
  • Pre-Filter #2 (And 3 If Applicable)
  • Automatic Shut-Off Valve
  • Membrane
  • Post-Filter
  • Bladder Tank
  • Drinking Water Faucet
  • Drain Clamp
  • wastewater saddle valve
  • Tubing
  • Quick-Connect Fittings

System location

Your reverse osmosis system may be installed in a basement or under a sink. It is advantageous for not to get the unit installed in a place where it would be exposed to freezing temperatures. Linking to refrigerator, icemaker or other remote location can also be deemed successful if the linkage can be established using below 12" of tubing, otherwise a delivery pump may be necessary.


Installation Steps

The plumbing process for RO installation should be completed in conformity with local and state plumbing codes. Various municipalities may ask for installation by an authorized plumber. The various plumbing codes for RO unit installation may include:-


  • Faucet Installation

    Faucet should be placed on or closer to the sink where cooking/drinking water is normally needed. If there is sprayer in the sink, it may be detached for faucet installation. A plug or a pipe cap will be required to seal the sprayer connection or sprayer can be left attached under the sink.

    To create a faucet-mounting hole (if sprayer hole or other existing hole is not used), check underneath to ensure that the drill will not intervene with anything under. A 2" flat surface is needed, not surpassing 1-1/4" thickness.

    The faucet should be placed in a way it empties into the sink and the spout swivels freely for ease. If the sink obtains a hole that can hold the osmosis faucet, no drilling is needed. Go ahead with mounting the faucet.

    Step-by step Installation procedures for Ceramic, Enamel, Porcelain on Metal, Cast Iron or stainless steel sinks:
    Preventive measures should be taken to penetrate the porcelain through to the metal base and prevent from crumbling and cracking.

    Procedures:

    • Mark a center for the 1/4" pilot hole.
    • Cautiously drill pilot hole with slow speed and light pressure through porcelain with masonry pit and pause when metal shows.
    • Continue to cut across the metal beneath the porcelain surface.
    • Keep enlarging the pilot hole with bigger masonry and metal cutting bits till the hole becomes1/2".
    • Finish the sharp edges.

    Note: Unlike a normal faucet, Air Gap Faucets need a 1-1/4" hole in the sink rather than the 1/2" included with the RO system. It requires distinct tools like a Relton cutter (porcelain) or a chassis punch (stainless steel) to make a 1 1/4" hole if a large enough hole does not already exist. Ask our specialist for more information.


  • Faucet Mounting

    Break up the hardware from the threaded shank. Rubber washers and Chrome base plates glide up the shank to the faucet body.

    Feed the threaded shank through the sink hole and position the faucet. From beneath the sink, hex nut over threaded shank, slide lock washer and tightly reinforce with a wrench.

    Note: It is always good to have someone hold the faucet from top of the sink to prevent it from moving out of position. If it is not feasible then tighten up the hex nut until it is bit less than fully tight. Turn up the faucet base from above the sink, tightening it while positioning the faucet in the relevant location.


  • Angle Stop Valve and Tubing Installation

    We at Perfect Healthcare offer a very simple, convenient and easy connection between the angle stop (cold water shut-off) and the base of the riser tube that runs between your faucet and the cold water shut-off. The Angle Stop Valve obtains an in-built shut-off and serves as the feed supply connection for the RO system.

    Angel stop valve is mainly used to supply a feed water connection to the reverse osmosis unit. This assembling is needed to be placed as close to the reverse osmosis unit as possible. You can also get the guidance about what substitutes can be used in place of the angle stop adaptor if one is unable to be installed below your sink.

    Installation procedure


    • Close down the cold water supply while using the angle stop shut-off valve placed below your sink.
    • After shutting down the angel stop valve, open the handle on your faucet at the cold water side to free off the pressure.
    • Detach the riser tube from the available cold water shut-off by using an adjustable wrench.
    • Take the tubing away from the valve to make space for the company’s Angle Stop Valve.
    • Attach the swivel end of the Angle Stop Valve to the cold water shut-off threads. This attachment must only be manually tightened.
    • Attach the riser tube to the male end of the Angle Stop Valve and strengthen with a wrench.
    • Connect a length of 1/4" tubing between the company’s Fitting on the Angle Stop Valve and the inlet of the reverse osmosis unit.

    Flexible Riser Tubes:

    Most riser tubes that are being used today in the industry are manufactured of flexible material, either braided plastic, braided stainless steel or gray 3/8" plastic tubing. These flexible tubes are the most convenient to use with the purifiersindia.co.in Angle Stop Valve because the 2" of additional room required for the Faucet Adaptor can be simply accommodated by flexing this type of riser. There will not be a need for a shorter riser tube.


    Copper Riser Tubes:

    If the riser tube is made up of copper, it will require to either giving a flex in the copper to enable for the 2" of space required for the Angle Stop Valve. If the copper tube measures 3/8", flexing it can be done conveniently with hand.

    The company’s standard Angle Stop Valve operates with 3/8" shut-off valves and riser tubes. In some situations, traditional plumbing processes may conduct a bigger size riser tube and shut-off valve. In such situations, it would be mandatory to either replace the old riser tube and shut off valve with new 3/8" parts, or use an alternative connection to pull the water supply to the RO system. Alternate options may include self T fittings, piercing valves and faucet adaptors that establishes link between the top of the riser tube and the faucet.


  • Drain Saddle Valve Installation

    A Drain Saddle in reverse osmosis is employed to establish a wastewater connection with the drain below the sink, which is constructed to fit around a standard 1-1/2" OD drainpipe. The drain saddle valve must be installed prior and above the P-trap or on a horizontal or a vertical drain. It is advisable not to conduct installation of the drain saddle valve within close range of garbage disposal to refrain from jamming the drain line with debris.

    Installation procedure:


    • Place the drain saddle valve at the chosen location and mark for the opening.
    • Drill a hole of 1/4" at mark through one side of drain pipe.
    • Eliminate backing from gasket and locate adhesive side to the fitting half of drain clamp surrounding hole.
    • Align both halves of drain saddle over the drain pipe so that the opening positions along with drilled hole. Apply a small drill bit to testify the drain clamp is accurately positioned.
    • Tighten the drain saddle clamp on valve with nuts and bolts provided in the kit. Note that the drain saddle should not be excessively tightened and verify there is equal room between the saddle halves on each side

  • Initial Tubing Connections

    For matter on ease on under sink installations it may be recommended to accomplish under sink tubing connections at this given time.


  • RO Component Installation

    The primary step is to install the O-ring end RO membrane first, carbon pre-filter(s) and sediment pre filter in vertical mounted housings. Take a note to effectively push the RO Membrane into Membrane housing as distant as it will go. It is mandatory to handle the membranes and filters with clean or gloved hands.


  • Reverse Osmosis Unit Installation

    The RO unit is generally mounted at either side of the sink (to the left or right sink cabinet sidewall), or in the basement depending upon the location where supply tank is to be placed. Most commonly the RO unit may be installed on the front of the cabinet and the tank at the rear.

    Mounting the RO unit on the right or left side of the cabinet below the sink allows for easy access to the unit for future maintenance.

    To mount the reverse osmosis unit, lift it up about 2" off the surface, level it and then mark the location of mounting holes required. For mounting screws, drill hole and install screws enabling the mounting bracket slots to glide over them.

    Note: If the cabinet sidewalls are not sturdy and stable, unit may relax on the floor with screws used just to put it against the cabinet in a vertical direction.


  • Pre-Fill and Supply Tank Placement

    Pre-filling of the storage tank is advised so there is adequate pressure for water to flush the carbon post filter as well as to scan for leaks.

    • Connect the feed line that will cater the reverse osmosis unit straight away to the bladder tank. A bladder tank is suggested to be placed within 10 feet of the faucet.
    • A 3/8" x 1/4" reducer is given for this specific purpose.
    • Make the water to fill the bladder until it stops.
    • Shut off the tank valve, close the feed pressure, relieve the tube from the reducer and detach the reducer from the tank valve.
    • The supply tank must be positioned under the counter or within 10 feet of the reverse osmosis unit.

    Note: Tanks are pressurized with air at 7 psi (pound per square inch) in advance.


  • Final Tubing Connections

    With all the RO elements in place, accomplish final tubing connections with the following guidelines:

    • Tubing is needed to follow the contour of the cabinets.
    • Chop off the tubing for error-free length using square cuts and appropriate cutting tool.
    • Verify for any crimps left in the tubing. There should not even be slightest crimps.
    • Keep tubing from the reverse osmosis unit to the faucet and tank as short as possible for excellent flow.

    Note: The Drain line is a small 1/4" tube attached to the membrane housing. There is a 3" cylindrical drain flow restrictor on this tube. And this is where the drain line links to the reverse osmosis unit. Do not take off the drain flow restrictor as this may result in failure in the system.


How to connect RO System to a Refrigerator

Step by Step procedure to connect an RO System to a Refrigerator, Icemaker or Water Dispenser
If you have a fridge with an icemaker or a water dispenser and wish to run the water from your reverse osmosis system (installed beneath your kitchen sink) to the refrigerator, you can consult and hire a water treatment expert to do the set up. First and foremost thing to keep in mind is that the water pressure from the reverse osmosis system will be around ⅔ the pressure of the cold water line. And there may be particular pressure considerations for some refrigerator needing you to hire a local water treatment specialist.

Check here for the DIY instructions to follow to hook-up RO and fridge by you

  • Close off the cold water line coming into your Reverse osmosis system.
  • Trace the tube that links your RO system to your RO water faucet.
  • Keep a bucket or a large bowl near the RO system under this tube.
  • Cut the tubing around 10 inches from where it comes out of the RO system, allowing water to drain into the placed bucket or bowl.
  • Install the Tee - fitting on the tubing attached to the RO system by forcing one of the two aligning ends on to the tubing as far as possible, and then pulling gently to check if tubing is safely secured.
  • Nest is to install the other end of the aligning Tee fitting into the remaining cut tube attached to the faucet.
  • Take a new ¼” tube and cut off a 10” piece.
  • Inside the Tee line, insert this 10” piece of tubing, which must be perpendicular to the tubing line going from the reverse osmosis unit to the faucet.
  • Attach the inline shutoff ball valve to the other end of the 10” tubing.
  • Attach one end of the remaining long ¼” tubing to the other end of the shutoff ball valve. This valve needs to be turned off (aligned perpendicular from the tubing line) unless the holding tank is fully filled.
  • Run the ¼” polypropylene tubing from the RO system and attach to your fridge. Usually, 20 feet of tubing is sufficient, but you can even run up to 30 feet of tubing. If you have in excess of 30 feet of tubing through the RO system and refrigerator, use a tube longer than ¼” fittings and tubing for good results.
  • Connect the tubing to the fridge /ice maker using a ¼” x ¼” union if needed.
  • Make sure to have the recommended water pressure to your fridge/ice maker in accordance to the refrigerator manufacturer properties.
  • When the time comes to change your reverse osmosis filters, shut down the inline valve till the time filter change is complete and the system has been thoroughly cleansed.

CAUTION FOR RO and REFRIGRATOR hook-up Safety

Connection of an RO system to refrigerator/Icemaker/water dispenser is not recommended for applications demanding more than 30 feet of tubing without alterations including tubing longer than ¼” and adaptors.

If your fridge has a copper piping for the icemaker line, do not connect your reverse osmosis system to the refrigerator. Does not use copper fittings or piping with RO treated water due to possible corrosion.

Change the filters on routine basis like once or twice in a year and also get the membrane checked annually. Automatic Ice Makers need water in the line to function appropriately. If you are emptying the storage tank or is left with absolutely no water in the very beginning then turn off the ice maker up to the time sink top faucet starts to give a a steady water flow.

The advanced RO systems are generally designed to work at water pressure between the ranges of 40 to 85 PSI. At pressure lesser than this, both the quality and the quantity of water will be deteriorated.

Note that if you do not have sufficient enough water pressure, it may be recommended to install the pumped RO systems instead. At higher pressure, intense damage to the RO system maybe caused. If domestic water pressure rises beyond 85 PSI, a pressure controller needs to be installed, decreasing the water pressure into the system.

our RO unit System has been tested to guarantee it will work properly. The suggested periodic maintenance is advised so your RO system will offer years of stress-free service:

  • Pre-filters (Sediment) - Once annually
  • Pre-filter (Carbon Block(s)) – Once annually
  • Post filter (Carbon) - Once annually
  • RO Membrane – Generally in Every 24 months
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